9.16.2010

Julian Roberts 'Subtraction Cutting' Method

Here I am working on a project for my Senior Collections class utilizing a Julian Roberts technique.  To create a garment two main methods are used: patterning and draping.  With patterning, you start designing the pieces you will sew together on paper, cut it out, place it on fabric, cut the fabric, then sew--essentially going from 2d to 3d.  Draping accomplishes the same end product, but instead of working with paper you work with muslin (a cheap fabric) and drape it over a dressform--going from 3d to 3d.  After you learn the basics of both methods, most designers usually combine the two or take more from the other depending on what the desired end design will look like.
Julian Roberts technique is neither of the two.  After sewing approximately 4 yards of fabric down each side, one traces a bodice front and back, connects the under arm holes, cuts the negative space (creating arm holes and neck hole) on one side of the fabric then continues cutting out shapes (hence "subtraction cutting" making the garment shorter and lighter) and sewing them together.  If the process isn't documented to the t, creating a pattern from it is possible, but would probably take you a couple of days or weeks.  The thing that I love most about this project is that you never know what you are going to get.  A close second is using simple math to sew circles into squares into triangles into lines and etc! I shall explain more at a later date and keep you updated on the process. Can I get an amen if I made sense to anyone? haha (:

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